Monday, October 5, 2015

Kali Salwar / Panel Salwar drafting

Today, we will learn how to draft a pattern for making a kali salwar/panel salwar. this tutorial is helpful for totally new beginners & novice starters as well as for practiced sewers.

The Kali salwar or panel salwar drafts looks like fig 1.
According to this pattern drafting you can directly cut the fabric.      
fig. 1   Kali salwar draft
Measurements needed for  kali salwar 

Length of salwar
Ankle circumference
Crotch            = 1/3rd of hip +2" (total crotch length measurement)

Method of panel / Kali salwar pattern drafting

waist piece

 Draw a straight line from point L to point M  ,that is (1/2 of hip) + 3 1/2"(or 1/2 of (hip +6"+1"))
 L to M, double fold
 suppose your waist is 40"= 1/2 of hip means 20"+3"(it means the  final waist piece should be 46" + 1" (seam allowance))

 If the width that is L M is not sufficient width and then attach  fabric of required width to MN but make sure that the total waist  piece measurement is hip + 6 " as said earlier.

 Again  draw  a straight vertical line downwards from point M  to  Point N such that MN= (1/6 hip) + 2"

 ON is same as LM

Fig 2

Center piece / panel drafting
   Fold the cloth in 4 folds in width wise.        
   Draw a vertical line  from point A to point D which will be length    of the salwar minus waist belt.
   Draw a horizontal line form point D to Point C that will be 1/4 of    width of the fabric.
   Please note that for children,
   AB =    half of the ankle +1"
fig 3
Side panels 

Take the same measurements as center panel from  point E to point K .
Draw a horizontal line From point E to Point G which will be half width of fabric. 
GI is same as EK.
KI is same as EG.
Measure down from point G to Point H which will be crotch length that is total crotch length+ waist belt/piece.
Mark 1" inwards that is point F.Give a curve shape and connect the point H. 
Mark the 1/2 ankle circumference  + 1" seam allowance at the bottom which are Points K J.

Joint the points J H and give little curve shape  inside.

                                                                      fig 4

After joining the side pieces to the center piece the salwar leg piece looks the figure below. 


Cut the center piece and side pieces separately.

Sunday, October 4, 2015

How to Make a Simple Salwar- Part 1 -Drafting


 Hello friends..!!! here's me with another tutorial. I'm back again but after a long gap.. Well I feel  great to be blogging again.

 So, today i'm gonna tell you how to make a simple salwar.  I'm covering this in about 3 posts. I have  provided the links to the remaining posts at the end of this post.

 At first, we're gonna learn the drafting part. Follow the instructions carefully.

 For making a simple salwar, obviously you will require fabric. :). see the fig. 1. Now spread your  fabric (ABCD). fold it in half lengthwise (that is along GH) and then width-wise (along EF).

Fig. 1

Measurements Needed

  • Length of the Salwar
  • Hip 
  • Ankle Circumference ( Bottom opening)

Drafting of the pattern (Refer Fig.2) 

 AC  =  BD    =        Full length of salwar

 AB  =  CD    =        Half of the width of fabric
 AE  =  BF     =        Waist length                                                
 EC  =  FD     =        Length of the salwar  + 1"                                                      

 FH                =        Crotch length
 FG                =        1" inward
 CJ                 =        1/2 of the ankle
 JI                  =         1"  seam allowance

Fig. 2

Waist (Refer to Fig. 3)

LM          =          1/2  of the  Hip measurement + 4"
ON           =         1/6 of the hip + 2" ( for casing and joining the salwar leg piece)

LO is on fold   that is you fold the fabric double in width         

Fig. 3
 For bottom opening    you cut the strip of a fabric of width 3" and  length of  is equal to CI  (ankle Circumference that is in fig 2)

Fig. 4

So, you have completed the drafting part.. You are now ready to cut the fabric..

Follow the next post for 'Cutting' details
Also check out the 'sewing' part  later..

Saturday, October 3, 2015

How to Make a Simple Salwar - Part 2- Cutting

Hey frnds.. this is the second post in simple salwar sewing tutorial series..

In this post, we're gonna see the measurements n cutting part... so lets get started...

1. First of all, take the whole cloth. Fold it in half width-wise. It should then look like fig 1. 
 (Please refer the 'drafting post' for details).

Fig. 1 

 2. Follow Fig.1 and cut the waist piece as indicated. Now you will obtain 2 pieces as in figs. 2 & 3.

Fig. 3 Waist piece
Fig. 2 main cloth piece after cutting waist piece
lets name this piece as 'the main piece'
3. Fold 'the main piece' lengthwise into half. (you will obtain four layers of fabric)
4. Now mark (full length minus waist piece length) on the folded cloth as in fig.2 (see the dotted line)
5. Now, take 1/2 of ankle circumference and mark as shown in Fig. 4. also add 1" for seam                     allowance as in Fig. 5 (green line indicates 1/2 ankle circumference & blue line indicates seam           allowance).  

Fig. 4

Fig. 5
  6. The crotch length is measured and marked in the main piece as in Fig. 6 (to know how to                     calculate required crotch length, please check the 'Drafting' post)      

Fig. 6
   7. To make a crotch curve like in Fig. 7, start 1" inwards n extend till the point you marked in the            above step. Cut along this curve.


Fig. 7
8. Join the two points you marked in steps 5 & 6 like u see in fig. 8. that is, the crotch point and the         point where the blue line in Fig.5 ends. Make it like a curve. Now, cut along it.

Fig. 8

9. you will now have a peice like the one you see in Fig. 9.

Fig. 9
10. Also cut some strips of cloth for making the draw-string and sewing the ankle facing.

So. now you are ready with all the required pieces. You are now done with the cutting part...  NExt, now get ready for the sewing part.. here's the next post in this series.

Happy Sewing friends....

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Evening Gown

My latest project is this evening gown... the circumference of the gown I really large.. u wont      believe it if i say it was around 5.5 m!!!! My daughter wished for such a gown some time ago... 
I was searching for a good fabric.. finally I'm relieved that i hav done it at last.....

This is a self-drafted dress. I traced the measurments directly onto the cloth. I cut the bodice, sleeves, collar, skirt, and long stripe. First I cut two pieces for the front bodice as it is like a shirt in its upper part. For the back part,  I cut as usual, but separately {as i previously got the front part}. I have used normal sleeves for this garment. It is a half circle/umbrella skirt . I chose the red color fabric as it is there in the bodice fabric and interface.  I cut the long strip of red cloth {seen in below and right in the following image} for the skirt's bottom.

So, that was the cutting part.. Now coming to the sewing and attaching phase,  I started with sewing the 3 darts on the front, towards the sides & on the back parts.                  

Next I sewed the the button plackets and  attached  red color fabric on the button hole placket  which looked really nice when done.

I stitched  three sides of the collar  with interfacing, after which, I used  binding along three sides of the collar with bodice fabric.            

 Nextly, I joined the shoulders and then attached the finished collar to the neckline.




I added the binding  to the sleeves and attached the sleeves into armhole, then sewed  the sleeve-seams and side-seems of the dress .


At the bottom of the skirt I used double layered red color fabric ,which beautified the entire look of the gown along with increasing the length of the skirt (which was what I intending n the first place ;p)

Lastly I sewed the bodice and skirt pieces together.

And then.... the gown was ready... Yippie!!

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Crochet Applique Top

When I saw  my mother crocheting  this  design for something else, I asked her if Icould use it for a top. Then, i started off with the top. 

I chose this top to be simple, so I thought the crochet pattern would fit it well.

Before cutting the neckline, I attached the pattern to the centre of the part, by hand, with running     stitch.When it appeared perfect to me , I finished it off by giving final touch on the  sewing machine.     

    After attaching the pattern, I cut the neckline.

 To give it more elegance, I sewed the binding on the neckline  by a same colored fabric as the  patttern.
 I used the same fabric for the border of the sleeves and the  bottom.

lastly I joined the back and front parts together and attached the sleeves to bodice piece. and there it is..

Thursday, September 25, 2014

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameeze Drafting tutorial

It is easy to make a kurti .Here you can learn how to make a kurti through drafting. 

     Pattern Drafting
     A-B;      C-D                 =              1/4  of  Chest  + 1.5"or 2"
     A-C;      B-D                  =              length  +1 .5" or 1"
     A-E ;      H-I                  =              1/12 of  chest +1/4" 
     A- F                               =              1/2 of shoulder
     B-L;       F-O                 =              1/4 of chest - 1.5 inch.
     A- H                              =               front neck 1/6  
     A- G                              =               back neck  ( the deep of the front and back neck as desired)
     M-N                              =              1/2 inch
     A-P                               =               waist length  ( below the  Breast) ,   

     P-Q                               =               1/4 of waist +1.5" 
     A-R                                =              hip length
     R-S                                =              1/4 of hip +1.5"

     First you mark the shape of armhole "F-M-L". this is back armhole.
     Next take 1/2"   from "M" inside and mark give a shape "N"as in fig front armhole.

    Shoulder drop ( F-J)         =   Mark 1/2"  
    Give a shape and cut along  "D-L-M-F and  J to E".
    You have to cut the back neck  "G-E". and front neck  "H-E" separately
    Back armhole shape "L-M-F" 
    Now Cut the front armhole shape separately that is L ,N,F.            

   A-B ,C-D                            take the same armhole measurement as in kurti or sleeve width +1.5"
   A-C                                     length +  1.5" 
   B -E                                    1/12 of chest  
   K -H                                   inside 1/2".
   C - G                                  half of sleeve round + 1"
   Draw the shape and cut along the outside marking (G -E -K -F)to obtain the shape of the sleeve.
   After getting the shape again you have to cut the front sleeve depth  that is "F-H -E" as front        armhole depth.
   These measurements are including seam allowances.


Saturday, August 30, 2014

Another Kurti Idea...

one more kurti that i sewed just yesterday... purple.. one of my fav colors.. with 3/4 sleeve . 

the design below the neckline... i embroidered it.. the green border is actually modified buttonhole stitch.. there's a mirror in the centre bounded by red colored mirror stitch.. the yellow part is a stitch known as 'kamala stitch' .. yeah.. thats same as my name :).. the red around the yellow is chain stitch..

i hope u liked it.. c u all soon.. till then take gud care of urselves... b'bye everyone...