Thursday, September 25, 2014

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameeze Drafting tutorial

It is easy to make a kurti .Here you can learn how to make a kurti through drafting. 

     Pattern Drafting
     A-B;      C-D                 =              1/4  of  Chest  + 1.5"or 2"
     A-C;      C-D                  =              length  +1 .5" or 1"
     A-E ;      H-I                  =              1/12 of  chest +1/4" 
     A- F                               =              1/2 of shoulder
     B-L;       F-O                 =              1/4 of chest - 1.5 inch.
     A- H                              =               front neck 1/6  
     A- G                              =               back neck  ( the deep of the front and back neck as desired)
     M-N                              =              1/2 inch
     A-P                               =               waist length  ( below the  Breast) ,   

     P-Q                               =               1/4 of waist +1.5" 
     A-R                                =              hip length
     S-T                                 =              1/4 of hip +1.5"

     First you mark the shape of armhole "F-M-L". this is back armhole.
     Next take 1/2"   from "M" inside and mark give a shape "N"as in fig front armhole.

    Shoulder drop ( F-J)         =   Mark 1/2"  
    Give a shape and cut along  "D-L-M-F and  J to E".
    You have to cut the back neck  "G-E". and front neck  "H-E" separately
    Back armhole shape "L-M-F" 
    Now Cut the front armhole shape separately that is L ,N,F.            

   A-B ,C-D                            take the same armhole measurement as in kurti or sleeve width +1.5"
   A-C                                     length +  1.5" 
   B -E                                    1/12 of chest  
   K -H                                   inside 1/2".
   C - G                                  half of sleeve round + 1"
   Draw the shape and cut along the outside marking (G -E -K -F)to obtain the shape of the sleeve.
   After getting the shape again you have to cut the front sleeve depth  that is "F-H -E" as front        armhole depth.
   These measurements are including seam allowances.


Saturday, August 30, 2014

Another Kurti Idea...

one more kurti that i sewed just yesterday... purple.. one of my fav colors.. with 3/4 sleeve . 

the design below the neckline... i embroidered it.. the green border is actually modified buttonhole stitch.. there's a mirror in the centre bounded by red colored mirror stitch.. the yellow part is a stitch known as 'kamala stitch' .. yeah.. thats same as my name :).. the red around the yellow is chain stitch..

i hope u liked it.. c u all soon.. till then take gud care of urselves... b'bye everyone...

Friday, August 29, 2014

Some more Kurti designs

Hey everyone! i'm glad i'm back so early.... this tym just to pass my time i sewed these salwar kameez sets.. two different kurtis... 

this first one , the green one, i sewed puff sleeves for it.. i sewed puff sleeves after a really long time... but thank god! i still remember it!

this one is another simple kurti as u can see...

these cotton kurtis are a real comfort in scorching summers.. a great refuge from the hot sun... :) hope u guys liked these...  until my nxt post keep sewing n following me... b'bye......

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Summer Froly Dress

 hello everyone... its been a long time since i posted something.... my daughter had vacations recently and like me she too got herself into sewing in free time... now its her newly found hobby n shes crazy about it.

this time she sewed this frock.. honestly speaking, i just loved it.  the pattern nd everything - she designed it all herself.. good amount of mathematical calculations she has put into making this piece.. She made this out of two old dresses.

This is how it looks....

and the back...

Now, let me tell u how this was made. Let's start with the back. 

She wanted to insert an invisible zip, so she had to take two halves for the back. So each half was again divided into two diagonal halves so as to give the appearance as u see in the photo.


 n now the front piece... it is full of diagonal strips as u can see.. the green n yellow ones alternately arranged.. the diagonal pieces starting from the neck area eased her work of sewing the neckline....

 and this makes the front piece.. onto  some cutting now n then joining the front and back pieces.. this frock is a sleeveless one so u need not worry about sleeves.. the arm border has a red binding , the same thing she applied for the border of the bottom piece also..
 For the bottom part.. its just six pieces of vertical cut cloth arranged in such a way that the green one comes in the centre both back n front... n ther u are ... THE FROCK'S READY!!!!

Friday, February 7, 2014

Simple Pyjama

pattern drafting;

Hip circumference

pattern making; 
                            Fold the cloth in 4 layers and then you take the measurements.
  a-b, c-d           -      1/4 hip measurement + 5"
a-c,  b-d          -      pajama length + 3.5"
j-k                  -      ankle loose + 1" ( it is loose at the ankle so i have taken the measurment
j-c                  -      folding 1"
a- e                -      waist belt ( double width of the belt ) width + 1/2''
e- j                 -      pajama original  length
b-g                 -      3/4"
f- h                -      crotch/3
the measurements are  including  the stitches.
I have not attached the waist belt separately so my elastic casing is including the pajama measurement which is shown as  marking  'a-e' , if you want to attach the belt separately then you have to take  the length measurement as original length + 1.5 inch ( that is e-c ) and the belt is double the width + 1".  Cut the fabric from bottom to crotch and crotch to g.
The sewing method is same as legging

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Legging stitching method

The legging is simple and easy to stitch. I was detailed the legging drafting in my previous post . This  materiel is not stretchable  so I stitched  little bit loose for my convince and take the measurements seat/4+ 3 inch.
Fold the cloth which you obtain 4 layers according to the seat measurements.
 Mark the length ( see the draft)  .  Mark the shape of legging at the open  side.
Mark  2.5" down from top of the edge for waist belt.( my waist belt is 1" i have taken double of the belt size + 1/2" for folding inside) from there measure down the full length and mark(G-H). and again mark 1" down for folding.
Mark 3/4" from the open side as A-C in fig. 1
 Mark the crotch (seat/3) B-D then draw  line to  connect  C.
As fig E-F shows the knee circumference and G-H ankle circumference + 1".  draw the slightly curved line from crotch to ankle as in fig and cut along the line.
    fig 1
  1. fig2 
Fig 2.     I attach the gore pieces at the crotch point as my comfortable, if you wish to attach cut the gore  in 2 pieces,otherwise no need.  
 After cutting the fabric you obtain this shape.

Attach the gore at the crotch point on the right side of the ( both right sides are together)  one leg piece as fig.4  and attach another edge of the gore to another leg piece as i draw the line which indicates no 1 and 2 in fig. 5 then from there where the no 2 indicates you have to stitch both leg pieces together until top of edge. see fig 6, 7 and 8
fig 4
After attaching the crotch shape the legging looks as in fig 9,10
Sew the bottom folding first fold the edges by 1/2" and  turn them again by another 1/2"and sew  along the fold . The bottom fold is 1/2" width.
sew the edges of the leg piece together with 1/2" seam allowances from  one leg piece bottom edge  to another leg  piece bottom edge.
 waist band ; you first fold the raw edge  to the wrong side of the casing by 1/2",    as in fig 11.again fold by casing  width which you desired  as in fig 12 and  stitch  around and leave 2" for insert the elastic as in fig 13.

fig 13
Fig 14 ,15 shows the  the elastic inserting the casing, pin the elastic one ending and insert the pin  and pushing it through  the casing

When you pushing the pin  inside the casing the it makes more ruffle,push the pin until the elastic comes outside ,  stitch the both elastic edges together and stitch the casing open. 
I have stitched one line around over the elastic casing.  
fig 15

Finally the legging is over

Monday, December 30, 2013

Square step border neckline

Square step border neckline 

A -B , C-D          -   The neck width
A-C ,  C-D          -   Neck depth 
 I  have taken neck width 2 1/2 or 3 inches,and neck depth
7 inch. see  the below fig. 1
C - E                          -    neck width
 D                               -     midpoint of the C -E. That means  C - D , D - E is1 1/4. see the below fig 2
Fig 2

       measure 2 inches upward  like fig 3

                                              Fig 3

    C -D , E - F, F- G  is 1 /14 inch,  which is already mentioned in the fig 2
   C - E , D - F                   - 2 inch.  Draw the lines and cut the neck line piece along    
   the marking, as in fig 4 and fig 5.


Fig 4

Fig 5

 fig 6 shows the border cloth which i  have used as a border of the neckline.

Fig 6

 Fig 7

 place the main neckline cutting piece over the folding of the border piece (fig 7),  draw and  cut along the main neckline as  shown in the fig 8.

Fig 8
fig 9 shows,  the border piece and main piece necklines after cutting.

Fig 9

Fig 10
 Now place the right side of the  border piece over the wrong side of the main piece,it means the right and wrong sides are fig 10, for convenience, pinning both of the pieces along the neckline (fig 11 )
Fig 11

In the fig 12 the blue line indicates the stitching line.
Fig 12

  the fig 13 shows after stitching of the neckline.
Fig 13

Cut slightly the stitched neckline here and there. the figures 14 and 15 shows
Fig 14

Fig 15

Fig 16
Flip the border piece towards the right side of the main piece as in fig 16 and 17.

Fig 17

The fig 18  and 19 indicates right   and wrong side of the neckline after fliping
Fig 18

Fig 19

 If you want  add the  cross pieces  to the design as in fig.20, cut the fabric tube into two pieces ,each measuring length 2-3 as in fig.20 and attach the fabric  tubes to the wrong side of the neckline. (only corner to corner) here is the link for the fabric tube tutorial

now stitch the edges of the neckline where  the borderline is flipped towards the right side of the neckline as in fig 21 and 22.
Fig 21

Fig 22

 Fold the raw edges of the border and attach the main piece as in
fig 23
Fig 23

 final figure of the neckline shown in fig 24 and 25.

Fig 24

Fig 25

the width of the border -as you wish.