Thursday, September 25, 2014

Kurti / Straight - Cut Kameez Drafting tutorial


It is easy to make a kurti .Here you can learn how to make a kurti through drafting. 



      
     Pattern Drafting
   
     A-B;      C-D                 =              1/4  of  Chest  + 1.5"or 2"
     A-C;      B-D                  =              length  +1 .5" or 1"
     A-E ;      H-I                  =              1/12 of  chest +1/4" 
     A- F                               =              1/2 of shoulder
     B-L;       F-O                 =              1/4 of chest - 1.5 inch.
     A- H                              =               front neck 1/6  
     A- G                              =               back neck  ( the deep of the front and back neck as desired)
     M-N                              =              1/2 inch
     A-P                               =               waist length  ( below the  Breast) ,   

     P-Q                               =               1/4 of waist +1.5" 
     A-R                                =              hip length
     R-S                                =              1/4 of hip +1.5"

     First you mark the shape of armhole "F-M-L". this is back armhole.
     Next take 1/2"   from "M" inside and mark give a shape "N"as in fig front armhole.

    Shoulder drop ( F-J)         =   Mark 1/2"  
  
    Cutting
  
    Give a shape and cut along  "D-L-M-F and  J to E".
    You have to cut the back neck  "G-E". and front neck  "H-E" separately
    Back armhole shape "L-M-F" 
    Now Cut the front armhole shape separately that is L ,N,F.            

   Sleeve:-
  
   A-B ,C-D                            take the same armhole measurement as in kurti or sleeve width +1.5"
   A-C                                     length +  1.5" 
   B -E                                    1/12 of chest  
   K -H                                   inside 1/2".
   C - G                                  half of sleeve round + 1"
   Draw the shape and cut along the outside marking (G -E -K -F)to obtain the shape of the sleeve.
   After getting the shape again you have to cut the front sleeve depth  that is "F-H -E" as front        armhole depth.
   These measurements are including seam allowances.

Sleeve

9 comments:

  1. Hi how much is AF in sleeve draft please.

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  2. Thank you for the reply.:-) can u teach a ladies pants draft,I only want to know how much should be the crotch length.

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    Replies
    1. Pant crotch length can be find out by three of the following ways: outer length - inner length, or hip/4 + 1" or hip/3 - 2".. For leggings plz refer to my post on the same.

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  3. Hi,in the kameez draft is K the midpoint?

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  4. hi.. In kameez how to mark "M"?

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  5. O to M = 2 inches
    generally its just a rough estimation that u get by practice and experience,..

    ReplyDelete