## Saturday, November 21, 2015

### Detailed Tutorial - Palazzo Pants

Palazzo pants are trendy now-a-days. They can be worn with a long kurti or even a short top or a t-shirt. So lets learn how to make one.

DRAFTING and CUTTING

Front pieces

A-B    =     D-E     =     width of bottom of the pant + 2"

Width of the bottom can be kept as much as desired. you can keeep it more if you want it loose. Usually the bottoms of palazzo pants are quite wide but i preferred medium width. So, I've taken 12" +  2" (seam allowances)

AD    =      BE      =      length of your pant (please note: do not add 1" for seam allowance here as we will atttach a separate waist belt)

BC    =       Crotch length obtained by Total length (AD=BE)/4

Draw a line MC parallel to AB
O is the mid-point of AB.
P is the mid-point of DE. Join OP. This line crosses the above line at R.
G to 2   =    0.5"

take your hip measurement. Divide it by 4. Add 2". this is the MC length. Let this be 'm'. now mark 'm/2' from R both sides and mark "M and "C".that,is, R is the mid-point of MC.
For example if your hip measurement is 40, then 40/4 = 10 + 2" = 12".then 12/2 = 6" = MR = RC.

AF     =   TM + 1" Join MF with a curve.
FG     =    (Your waist measurement + 2)/ 4
Draw a straight line from G to H.
Draw a curve from G to C as in this fig.
Measure 14" (your knee length)from E and mark N.
Knee width, LK = MC-1" such that S is the mid-point of LK. ( in the example above, LS=SK = 5.5")

Again take the points z and z' just like L and K above but ZP = PZ' = MR = RC (i.e. 6" in the above example).
Now cut along FM , MT and TD. Also cut along GC' and C'E. The front pieces are now ready.

Back pieces

Place the cut front piece over folded fabric for cutting back pieces. The red lines indicate the front piece and the blue lines indicate the back pieces in the given fig. Mark S such that GS = 1" and T such that CT = 2". Mark S' such that E'S' = 1.5" now join T and S' as shown. Mark A' and D' cut along the line. Also cut along STS'. Now, you obtain two back pieces.

 Fig. Cutting the pieces

STITCHING:

Join the crotch areas of the two front pieces. Also do the same with the back two pieces.

Now, join the outer side edges of the left front and back leg pieces together and stitch along the length. Do the same way to the right-sided pieces also Next, take a strip of cloth of width = twice the desired width plus 1". length would be that of your waist measurement + 1". This is your waist belt.
Attach the belt to the waist and insert the elastic.  Now stitch the bottom edges in double fold. Lastly close all the open edges of  the leg pieces (obviously except for the bottom opening!!)

* For more information on how to attach the waist belt, you can refer to my earlier post legging stitching method

### How to Cut & Stitch a Princess-Cut Kurti

Hello everyone.. Time for another tutorial. This post would tell you how to make a princess cut kurti. This kurti is very similar to the straight-cut kameez/kurti only difference being in its shape. It has a little A-Line kurti-like shape. For drafting please check out the straight cut kameez tutorial sewing post.
 Princess-cut kurti
1. You have to note few alterations.
0-8     =    half shoulder
0-7     =    3.5" (or about 3 to 4)
8-A    =    shoulder slope
1        =    midpoint of AB
7-2     =    11" (or 10.5")
3        =     as far from the mid-line as is 7 (0-7) (3.5")
5-6     =     hip + 3" (Hip measurement is as said in the above (straight-cut kameez) tutorial (RS))
4        =     midpoint of 5-6
6-7     =     seam allowances 1.5"

 Fig.1
CUTTING

Draw the draft on the fabric and cut along the yellow dotted lines in fig. 1.

 Fig. 2

 Fig. 3 - After cutting
After cutting, you would have two centre pieces and four side pieces (both front & back).
STITCHING

Keep both the cut pieces A&B together correspondingly. Next, place the piece B over A in such a way that their right sides face each other and the points E and E+ coincide. Check out fig. 4 and 5.

 Fig. 4

 Fig. 5
Secure with pins and sew along the entire length. Repeat the same with the other side and back side pieces too.

 Fig. 6 Pinning

 Fig. 7 After joining the two side pieces to the center piece
For the remaining steps, please refer the straight-cut kameez sewing tutorial. The side seams and slit opening are optional. You can instead choose to sew the side edges together.
Hope this helps...!!

## Friday, November 20, 2015

### How to Stitch an 'A'-line Kurti

This tuorial is on making an "A"-Line Kurti. It is very easy and the draft pattern is quite similar to that of a straight-cut kameez/kurti except for that it widens as we move down and has a flare.

You can find the drafting in this tutorial. You should note that here, the width AB is (hip + 3"). Hip measurement would be as mentioned in the above tutorial (RS). Take extra 1" along the whole length as seam allowance.

If you would like to give the bottom a curve shape as I've done, then you should mark C as  the midpoint of AB and also BD = 3". Join the points making a curve. YOu can therwise simply go with the straight pattern as it is also equally popular.

The edges of the sides can either be closed or left often as a slit. Further steps are similar to the one in the kameez sewing tutorial.

Happy sewing!!

### How to sew a neckline with bias strip

This is a tutorial on neckline with bias strip. Make a bias strip from this tutorial. Fold it in half width-wise. Place this strip along your cut neckline.
Secure this bias strip with pins with the right sides facing together in this figure below. (the raw edges are to be kept together towards the neck line)

Sew it along the neckline. Invert it towards the wrong side. Rest of the method is similar to the one described in the tutorial on stitching neckline'

To end, don't forget to hem/machine stitch the edges. That's it!

## Thursday, November 19, 2015

### Simple Easy tutorial on sewing a bias strip

Hey sew-lovers! Time for another tutorial. In this post, we are going to see how to sew a bias strip.

We have to start with a triangular (preferably an isosceles one, obtained on folding a square in half  diagonally) (Fig.1)
 Fig. 1
Draw parallel lines as in fig. 2.  The width of each piece and the total number of pieces is upto you to decide.
 Fig. 2

Cut along the drawn lines. As said earlier, you can have as many poieces as you want... this would determine the length of your bias strip.(fig. 3)

 Fig. 3
Keep all the pieces horizontally and cut the extra small triangular pieces as in fig. 4
 Fig. 4
THe next aspect is joining two pieces. Look at the two pieces in fig. 5. Keep the two pieces one over the other such that 'B' of the 2nd piece coincides over 'A' of the first piece. Take a diagonal stitch as in fig. 6
 Fig. 5

 Fig. 6
Then, trim off the extra triangular part as in fig 7.

 fig. 7
Turn over. You must have got something like fig. 8
 fig. 8
Keep adding the rest of the pieces in the same manner to increase the length. And the bias strip is done!!

Hope this tutorial helps.....

### Sewing a Perfect Neckline - Quick Easy Tutorial!!

Hello Everybody... its been a while. So, today, i'm going to teach you the technique of stitching a perfectly neat neckline for your dresses and tops.. You could also check out the tutorial on stitching necklines in detail.

a) Firstly, you have to get an interface as it would make the neckline firmer. Fold the interface such that one leaf of the fold is about 2 inches more than your neck width measurement. the point would be 'O'. Mark your required neck measurement from 'O' ('A' in fig. 1). Then at 1" from 'A'  mark the point 'B'.
 Fig. 1

b) Also mark the neck depth corresponding to point A n join the two points. at 1" from this point, mark another point. join this fourth point n 'B' as shown in fig.1. Take care the lines are parallel and straight. Cut along these lines. You will get a piece like the one in fig. 2.

 Fig. 2

c) Now place the interface on facing (can be the same fabric as your dress or you can also choose another fabric if you want).. now keeping the sticky side of the interface over the wrong side of the fabric you took, iron over it carefully so that the shape's not disturbed. (Fig. 3).

 Fig. 3  Cut the extra fabric parallel to its edges.
d) Next, place this fabric piece over your dress with the right sides facing each other. The mid-point of the two fabrics should coincide. (Now, here u have to keep in mind that the fabric (front/back for whichever piece you are stitching the neckline) should not be cut anywhere for the neckline stitching)

 Fig. 4

e) After this, secure the two fabrics with pins and then sew a straight line along the mid-line as in fig. 4. Another stitch along the inner border of the interface (yellow dotted line in fig. 5, yeah it is not that clear, I know!)

 Fig. 5

f) Now cut both the fabrics along the inner edge of the interface but about half an inch from the edge. See the fig. 6, you will understand better.

 Fig. 6

g) Finally, you have to invert and turn this piece backwards so that it resembles the one in fig.7 Top-stitch over the inner border.

 Fig. 7
h) Towards the wrong side it should look somewhat like this (fig. 8). You might want to hem the outer edge to secure it.

There you are.... ! Done with  the square neckline.. easy isn't it? You can sew any other shaped neckline other than the square one I have shown here. The procedure would remain the same.

## Friday, October 23, 2015

### How to sew kali Salwar / Panel Salwar

Hey Sewaddicts!! Time to learn something new! So, in this tutorial we're gonna learn how to make a panel pyjama/ kali salwar. Okay! easy.. Don't worry.. its really simple. You will find the drafting method for a kali salwar in my earlier post. So, in this tutorial we will see the cutting & sewing parts.

CUTTING:

After cutting the waist piece you have to cut the center piece.
Open the full width of the fabric.
First, fold the fabric into half its width (that is AB is 2 layers).
Again fold the fabric half width-wise that is fold A over B or such that C mid point of the AB.
Now you have got 4 layers of the fabric.
On this folded fabric, Mark the required length of the salwar part (here, this required length is = salwar full length minus waist piece length) +1" (Figure Salwar center piece Cutting 1)

 Salwar center piece Cutting 1
Cut the center piece according to the length Fig .2.

 Fig 2 Open the second fold that is "C".  You have got 2 center pieces (2 layers) that is AB. Cut along the fold that is A A (fig.1). Separate the 2 cut layers. The fig 3 shows the two centre pieces.
 Fig 3 Center pieces Now, for the side pieces the length would be same as that you took for the center piece and width would be half the width of the fabric. Draw a line across the corners as Fig 4 and cut it along the line. Fig 5.
Side pices/kali
 Fig 4

 Fig 5
you have got 4 kalis  Place the kalis one over the other. Fig 6.

 Fig 6
Mark the crotch length and draw curves for the crotch and the inner side of the kali as shown in the fig. 7 and cut along these curves. (Figure 8)

 Fig7

 fig 8. kali

Fig 9 shows the waist pieces, ankle fabric and facings.

 Fig 9
Fig.10 shows all the kali salwar pieces after cutting. Now that we are done with the cutting part, let's move on to the stitching part.

 fig 10 kali salwar  pieces

STITCHING

Facing - bottom opening (The ankle part)

Take a strip of fabric with width as (double the width of the interface you are going to attach  +1") and its length would be (1/2 of ankle circumference) or  (the width of center piece in Fig 1)

 Fig 1

Take the interface (with width as 1/2 width of facing(as in the step above) and length being the same as the facing). As in fig 2, place the interface on the wrong side of the facing and cover it.

 Fig 2

Attach the interface to the right side of the center piece at the bottom (that is where your ankle part would be) and stitch the two together. The pins in fig.3 indicate the seam line.

 Fig 3 attaching interfacing

After attaching and stitching, turn the interfacing towards the wrong side of the center piece. Next, top stitch on the right side (fig 4).

 Fig 4

Stitch the other edge of the facing (which is towards the wrong side) again onto the wrong side as in Fig 5. Now you have 2 parallel seam lines - one each over each edge of the facing.
 Fig 5

Create rows of top stitching with either a straight stitch (as i have done in this picture below) or any other decorative stitch of your choice.

 Fig 6
Now lets move onto the main salwar part. Keep the side pieces/the kalis on each side of the centre piece respectively lengthwise and sew. Do the same for the other side too.

 Fig 7 joining the center and side pieces
After having finished joining of the pieces together, it should look as in the figs 8,9.
 Fig 8 finished joining the kali

 Fig 9
After that, sew the crotch part, attach the waist piece to the leg/salwar pieces all the way creating frills. For rest of the finishing process, you will find the instructions here in this tutorial.

So, there you are... done with kali salwar/ panel pyjama. It is a very trendy dress. It is very popular in
India as a casual wear. You can pair it up with a short/long kurti or even a t-shirt. (It looks cool with a t-shirt.!!) I hope this tutorial would be of great help to you. For any queries and doubts or requests, please comment below.. and keep waiting for other interesting easy-to-learn tutorials..